Sunday, May 18, 2014

Rome Day 2: Where to Eat

We had asked the citylightsman where there was a good place to eat and he said that on the other side of the Colosseum, after the tour ended there, that there were lots of restaurants, but on a little street one block from the Colosseum, Lucy’s had the best lasagna in town and was a good price.
      When we were done with the tour then, we walked across the street and started looking for the restaurant and decided that we would never be able to find it. There were lots of “little streets with lots of restaurants.
  We walked around for a couple of blocks and then saw it!  Suddenly!  Success!  (But we would never have figured on that spelling, silly us.)
    Everything is a la carte (which we found is usual, unless you will order their 4 course meals!)
   We sat next to a young man from Israel who had lived in Rome for 9 years, and although he was working on his medical degree, he chose to be a tour guide.  He said, Yes, you need to see the Vatican, but he considers it an institution of “Greed.”  Everything has to be the very best, he said, from all over the world.
   BTW, he spoke great English! It seems the young people in Italy (and France, we found out later) are not taking English in school any more….as so few spoke it.

Rome Day 2: The Roman Forum and Colosseum

   We were deciding where to go when a young man told us about a small group English walking tour (citylightstours.com) of the ruins, so since we like smaller groups, we decided to go (35€) and it was so worth it!  It was a group of 8 and had a wonderful Italian English guide who had worked as a tour guide for many years.   It also included entrance tickets to the Forum and the Colosseum which otherwise had long lines and those tickets almost paid for our tour.  We had individual earphones which made it easy to hear her.  (We also saw lots of LARGE groups with the earphones too…but we sure didn’t want to be part of a large group..but the earphones are a great addition to a tour group.)  It was so much better than going on our own there.
Marketplace - actually like Wall Street





Forum

 
Walking into the Colosseum, like you were attending

Suddenly, you're there!
They've built a stage for progras.
 

Colosseum, beneath the floor




Colosseum seating



Colosseum - how it was
Our guide told us that there were several layers of ruins since people just rebuilt and also took a lot of building materials to build their homes or other structures.  It wasn’t considered ‘vandalism’ then since no one particularly cared about saving for historical purposes.  Thus, sometimes there were not many stones left of an ancient structure.

Rome Day 2: Vittorio Emanuele II Monument at the Piazza Venezia

    Our hotel had a great breakfast (large fresh croissants!!!! Yoghurt!!  Great coffee!) but the only thing Ron could eat was the cheese and ham slices (processed) but we were expecting that.  What we did not expect was that the group that was staying there (we had seen their bus) was composed of handicapped people who had come from all over Italy to receive the Pope’s blessing and they had been part of the crowd on Saturday at the Vatican.  We talked to a man at our table (we accidentally sat at one of the group’s table, but it worked out fine, everyone was very friendly) who spoke a little English who said it had been a “magic moment” seeing the Pope. 
       We had decided to take a city tour (since we still knew literally Nothing), one of the bus tours that take you around and drop you off here and there. We took the city bus (remember, by now we “know” the bus system … and you can buy a bus ticket at the tobacco shop!) to the end of that line, the Piazza Venezia. Little did we know that is a major tourist attraction and also near the Roman forum ruins that Joan was most interested to see.

We spent quite a bit of time looking at the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument and an attached church where a wedding was going on (on Sunday!) And then we noticed that the Roman Forum ruins were right nearby so we thought we’d just walk around them on our own since we were right there (no need for a “bus tour”.)
  
  
Wedding


 

    


Saturday, May 17, 2014

Our First Night in Rome


St Peters - we actually couldn't believe it was that close
Roman skyline view

 We arrived at our first European hotel stay today  (Villa Aurelia) and checked into our room.  It was nice but just a room and a bathroom, with a little tiny plastic shower (NOTE:  this was the norm for all our hotel stays: no coffee pot, no phone, no little fridge or microwave, just a room and a small bathroom.)  Front desk staff was very nice and spoke English.  Free wi-fi computer to use in the lobby.   Just a 20-minute walk to the Vatican.  Unfortunately, as this was just our two night introduction to Rome to “recover” from the redeye trip and we had not planned a Vatican visit this weekend.

St peter's, up close
    We took a walk around the neighborhood and saw a beautiful view of St Peters.  However, we also saw dumpsters—4 along almost every block, on both sides of the streets, overflowing with garbage bags.  Garbage bags were also just left out on any corner, and graffiti was everywhere.  Well, there were lots of multistoried apartments and condos in that neighborhood after all.
  We went back to the room and took two short 20 minute naps.  By now it was 5 p.m.  and so we walked down the main street looking for a restaurant.  We walked blocks and blocks and found almost nothing…then we decided that most restaurants probably do not even open until late, but we did need to eat.  We walked back then to a small restaurant we had seen.  It was open but with no customers, but we went in anyway and were happily greeted and got great service.  Ron, unable to eat pasta or bread dough (e.g. pizza) and Joan, generally off high cholesterol items still..e.g. cheese on pizza…? and here we are in ITALY!!!!!!???  Ron ordered meat and grilled vegetables – which were fabulous –and Joan had spaghetti.  We found out then about water:  only sold in bottles to your table. 

Dumpsters all long the streets
   We ate well and then stopped at the grocery store on the way back to the room and bought fruit and water, went to sleep at 7 p.m., awoke at 11 p.m. had a snack in the room and then went to sleep again.  Woke up in the morning, totally already attuned to local time.

 

Getting to the Hotel from FCO... and What We Learned

Pam had offered an airport transfer to the first hotel for $65 (plus her $50 fee) but we couldn’t see paying that much to get there so early in the morning (7 a.m.?)  We decided to have an ADVENTURE!  Figuring out how to get there on our own, via airport bus, train, etc.  After all, Linda had said that Pam got them hotels near the train station so it was always an easy walk.
   Joan got on the hotel’s website to see where it was and how to get there, as Pam had only given us a small local street map.  Good thing we had those instructions.  We would have never found it!  (Guess that’s the advantage of having a “car pick you up. … but then, we wouldn’t have learned how to “work” the trains and buses.  And did we learn!)  And can we say? It was NOWHERE near the train station: first, getting to the Termini (main) train station on the airport bus (it was only 5€ each versus 14€ on the train), then a Metro (subway) train ride, then a bus, then walking. We had our luggage with us, of course, but we saw people all over town dragging luggage too, so it is a common thing to do.  Good thing we packed light!   (NOTE: It was a 21€  taxi ride to return just to the train station when we left that hotel Monday…we hadn’t wanted to take a chance on the timing back to the train station via walking, bus and train with our luggage, since we had to catch two trains to go to our next stop near Sorrento.)  We don’t call that a short walk from the hotel to the train station.
They're searching for a coin also!
     Joan had read all she could about getting around, finding ATM’s, etc. on Rick Steve’s site, Tripadvisor site, at the AAA office, etc.  Still…….so much was not told us, or many things were just incorrect or missing!   Important things: like it takes a Euro to go to the bathrooms at the train station!  And, no, there are not a lot of ATM’s in the airport or train station…the impression given online is that they were readily available.  But… “No.” 
     Bank of America had said there were NO FEEs for using the ATM from their partner banks:  Wrong!  That had changed March 1st but many of their bankers did not know it.  Also, the partner bank had also changed its name, as there had been a buy-out.  Hmmmmm…difficult to find anyway but with a new name?
        How do you buy a train ticket?  There are kiosks, and the web has ten or more screen descriptions on how to use them.  Oops – not going to try, we thought.  But…they are not that hard after all, once you can figure out how and what to punch!  What train track do you catch your train on?  Fortunately, other passengers helped us – the few that spoke English.  (No, not “everyone speaks English.”) 
       We were warned (Rick Steves’ site) that in the train station, people will come up to you to “help” you .. but as he says, they are only there to “help themselves” as they want  a tip from you for doing that.  Obviously, we needed help as we gazed around looking for some indication of where/what/how….but we soon learned to say “No” to those people. 
       There are also beggars everywhere at the train station.  We stopped to have a snack and several ladies came through the restaurant area, holding small children and their hands out.  People also stand right by the ticket kiosks and hold their hands out for your change as it falls from the automatic machines.
      Of course, we had been warned of pick pockets, so we had money belts safely under our clothes, and had no problems (we were especially aware since Ron had lost his wallet in Mexico this year.)
      How do you get on the train when there are literally hundreds of people surging ahead – you run from car to car, all of which are filled and spilling out, and finally push your way in … like everyone else, completely jammed together.  Sometimes, people continued to push as the doors were closing.  (Ron said it reminded him of Japan.)  We only saw people line up at the post office and the train station to buy a ticket from an agent and then only because there was a numbering system; otherwise, people just push in.
        How do you pay for the bus?  We were at the city bus stop that first day.  Do you need exact change?  Do you buy a ticket somewhere?  (No place in sight, of course).  A nice young man sitting at the bus stop told us, “Your Metro (subway) ticket works on the buses too!”  Wow!  Who knew that?  What a great deal!
    We had decided though, that it would be an Adventure! and that we would not get frustrated finding the hotel, and we didn’t.  There were too many unknowns to get frustrated, because EVERYTHING was unknown!  We just had to find out how to go and how to do it.
   And we did!

Cost:  13€ total for 2 of us to get to the hotel.  Time:  5 hours. 

Advantages:  We learned SO MUCH:
1)  Do not take the buses at the airport to Termini (main) train station that only charge 4€ or 5€; take the one that is 6€…it is not so crowded and they seemed to come more often (we saw that as we had purchased the 5€ bus ticket and it essentially was impossible to get on, it was so crowded);

2) Finding and working the ATM machines;
3) Became completely familiar with Termini since we searched for a long time for ATM machines;

3) People do not line up but only push and shove their way into buses and trains;
4) There are beggars even in the restaurants, plus all those that come up to “help”;

5) There is hardly any place to sit to eat on the first floor of Termini, but many places downstairs (unfortunately, we found that out too late to use them);
6)  You need to go downstairs to find the Metro system lines;

7)   How to recognize a bus stop;
8)  The Metro (subway) ticket is very cheap and is good for the buses too, within the time limit of the ticket;

9) We were awake and active to begin to overcome jet lag.
Hmmmm…is that all we learned?  Certainly we learned more….

 

 

 
 

We’re Off! ATL-FCO Delta Flight

Took off from Atlanta airport yesterday afternoon at 4 p.m.  9+ hour flight.  Delta has a very nice way of making it easy to overcome jet lag.  We had a dinner at 6 p.m., a sandwich snack at 9 p.m. and then “breakfast” at midnight (Eastern time) for an arrival at 7 a.m. local Rome time.  Made you think and feel that indeed, it was breakfast time!

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Packing


That's it:  TOTAL that we are taking!
We had prepared our European packing into two small rollerboards while still in Seattle, and we took them intact to FL. Meanwhile, Joan had become a Delta Million Miler and was offered special gifts: jewelry or luggage.  She chose the luggage, a very special lightweight small rollerboard, brand of Tumi.    We had not known how quickly it could be delivered, so we had it sent to our friends in Atlanta and they had it for us when we got there.  We then transferred one of the rollerboard contents to that suitcase:  turned out it was MUCH SMALLER even, so we actually culled our stuff even more and mailed some back to Seattle that we would need there this summer, as well as current mail that had been sent from our UPS box and prescription medications that had been sent, again to our friends in Atlanta. 
Easy to get around with.
      This, we were ready to go, with a small rollerboard each (one weighed 23 pounds and one 25 pounds) one carry-on bag and Ron’s CPAC machine.  No laptop, we would use no cell phone (Joan had a Kindle to use for reading as well as emails and Web work) …no purse, no tote bag, just these 4 items.  Easy to get around!  We followed Linda’s advice!